Saturday, November 18, 2017

Passing Through



I haven't written much this year. Or last year, for that matter. When this site was initially created four years ago, a different set of circumstances had defined my situation. I was fresh out of a relationship, overworked, struggling with abusively long workdays, a grueling commute, and weekend work that stretched on for many months at a time. And though intermittently dating - and getting my fair share of female affection - I felt terribly and unrelentingly alone. Writing became a necessary outlet, a companion. Since then, things have changed considerably, leaving me muzzled by contentedness. Work life balance has improved to near perfection. My job allows me more than ample vacation time, reasonable hours, and a generous degree of autonomy in my day-to-day responsibilities. For the first time in a long time, I'm relatively unencumbered. Life is good. Money is not a concern, and there is very little to worry about in the way of material needs.

But now, more than anything else, boredom proliferates. It's been said that tedium is the fault of those who feel it, that each moment is rife with completeness and we need only to accept this as fact to revel in the euphoric mindfulness of now. While there is some truth to this idea, generally, it is not quite as simple. Most of us lack the requisite monkish disposition to indulge this sort of aphorism, but of those celebrated ascetics able to employ such stoic frugality, how many mistake monotony for serenity? To them, what is the difference between boredom and bliss? For to empty oneself of desire, of need or want, to sever completely the link between a person and one's passions, is to achieve the coveted nothing-state of nirvana. But at what cost? After all, what is a person without passion? Surely a certain fanaticism is needed to maintain a zest for life; it is the most powerful weapon we have at our disposal to combat the quotidian drudgeries of routine. More importantly, why pursue a state of nothingness while alive? There is all of eternity for that.

Everything is a matter of perspective though, isn't it? At every moment we have the choice to see the splendid or the stodgy. Each day the sun predictably rises, and then falls, a shining opal moon swims up out of the sea, ascending to its rightful place at the centerpiece of the night sky's twinkling sapphire-studded tiara. Each year seasons breathe in with a blush of color and hold the pose until the sweaty fervor of summer is cooled by a long, slow, autumnal exhale that cuts the color from the trees and hangs, instead of leaves, icicles on the arms of skeletal branches. This process, to a tired observer, loses its wonder and appears not so much as an act of magic, but as mere repetition, the flicking on and off of a light. Outside forces seldom change; only our responses to them. But sometimes, if you change your environment, you change your perspective.

For me, it is time for such a change. I am likely leaving here, and sooner than I think. When I moved to San Francisco nearly seven years ago, I was certain I'd live here until they were putting me in the ground. Never had the thought crossed my mind that my stay here might be temporary. However, I do remember saying that if I were to leave San Francisco it would be for Europe. Now that the reality of it is setting in, there are feelings of uncertainty and sadness to attend to. Feelings of excitement and possibility, too. Starting anew in this way is rarely easy, and nothing worthwhile ever is, but it provides a unique challenge, an opportunity for growth and a richness of experience that can be gained in no other way; living in a foreign country, learning a new language not just of words and phrases, but of ideas, culture, histories, ways of living. Life, if nothing else, is an exercise in exploration. We should pursue it both in our internal struggles and also in the world around us, not because it is good to do so, or because it is just, but because we must. We're here only briefly, there is little time and much to see and do.


Passing through, passing through
Sometimes happy, sometimes blue
Glad that I ran into you;
Tell the people that you saw me passing through

I saw Adam leave the garden
With an apple in his hand
I said, "Now you're out
What are you gonna do?
Plant some crops and pray for rain
Maybe raise a little Cain
I'm an orphan and I'm only passing through."

I saw Jesus on the cross
On that hill called Calvary
"Do you hate mankind for what they've done to you?"
He said, "Speak of love, not hate
Things to do, it's getting late
I've so little time and I'm just passing through."

I shivered with George Washington
One night at Valley Forge
"Why do the soldiers freeze here like they do?"
He said, "Men will suffer, fight
Even die for what is right
Even though they know they're only passing through."

I was at Franklin Roosevelt's side
Just a while before he died
He said, "One world must come out of World War Two
Yankee, Russian, white or tan
Lord, a man is just a man
We're all brothers and we're only passing through."

Monday, October 30, 2017

Look On Down



Amplifier feedback haunted
hums
A sudden avalanche of aching
rises
Goodbye
...goodbye

A lonesome organ plays
the smell of rain
and
cold autumn air

Goodbye
...goodbye

A determined hand pressed against a glass
A heart full of sand
Quick
Be still

Maybe we'd
still be

Slide guitar
her voice like smoke
disappearing
sliding
away
and back
again

Small grainy castles on a shore
a swelling moat surrounds
The spilling of seas
wash over
ashore
good tidings, turned bad
moon rising
pale and scarred and so full and
far
away
and back
and away
again

Goodbye
...goodbye

Waxing
waning
always never
together ever
becoming
unbecoming

light and shadow

Nearby, a bridge
Two feet
a ledge
below, the water
shines, waves
waits...

Monday, October 23, 2017

MoMA Mia


Yesterday, on a whim, I went to the SF MoMA. I woke up, showered, and could tell by the breeze from my open window that it was a lovely day, so I quickly dressed and grabbed my sunglasses to catch the bus downtown. As I walked from the bus stop to the museum I marveled at how much the architecture of the city has changed in the seven years that I've lived here. Many modern looking apartment buildings have been erected. In any direction you can see construction cranes building still more of them. San Francisco is a desirable place to live, and one need only visit it once to see why. People are friendlier, more relaxed than their east coast counterparts, and the weather, usually, and especially at this time of year, is beautiful. A new skyscraper is being built, called the Salesforce Tower. I'd heard, at an art show I'd attended on Friday night, that once completed the building will be the tallest in California. Looking at it from the street near the MoMA it seemed somehow out of place, as though it might fit better on Dubai's skyline than San Francisco's. That's not to say the building is unsightly or without charm; far from it. It appears taller than it is wide, and it tapers slightly as it rises, like a giant shampoo bottle made of glass.

Upon entering the museum, after purchasing a ticket and being ushered into an elevator, I pressed the button for the seventh floor so that I'd work my down instead of up. And as fate would have it, the seventh floor turned out to be stellar. Directly in front of the elevators was a little room full of small, sound-making machines made of wood, string, motors and metal. They functioned on a timer so that together they'd create a quiet symphony of oddly mechanical sounds which, on their own were not necessarily musical but, when heard in concert would produce an oddly pleasing song. The exhibit reminded me of something Da Vinci might have conceived. Passing through the room, on the right side, I noticed a darkened hallway and, moving away from the crowd, I headed in that direction. Because of how dark the path had been, traversing the space became very disorienting, causing me to have to shorten my gait and step cautiously, as to avoid losing my footing or colliding with another person, but when I entered the almost lightless room I saw only a faint spotlight illuminating an amplifier. The space was completely empty, or, at least seemed to be; as best as my adjusting eyes could tell. Within a second, a microphone swung into view and almost kissed the speaker. As it did, it produced a brief but beautiful hum of deep feedback distortion before swinging pendulously back into the darkness. Somewhere there must have been another, hidden speaker, one which played the soft music of harps and falsetto female vocals. The singer sang in a language I couldn't understand, which gave the scene an even more surreal feel. The piece, by Camille Norment, was ingeniously minimal, using a natural motion to make a vaguely percussive sound, and utilizing the absence of light to force attention to the hypnotic sway of the microphone, it lulled the viewer into melodic contemplation. What forced me to leave was the distracting sound of people whispering loudly in the dark and remarking on how "eerie" it was.

Next was a German art exhibit from the post world war era. All of the works were moving, but especially impressive was the work of Anselm Kiefer. One gets the impression of his canvas being slowly steeped in the color of desolation. Using a palate colored by mud, ash, soot and smoke and lead, he evokes a strong sense of aftermath. Constantly the work made use of ruined landscape, smoldering haze, and barren lifelessness, as though moments before viewing, whatever scene he'd meticulously crafted had been bombed into rubble. One piece, depicting what looked like a bathtub placed close to the foreground, showing an endless expanse of razed fields as its backdrop, had beside it a small placard explaining how the tub symbolized a German desire to clean their history of the atrocities of war. Sigmar Polke also had several powerful pieces. At what seemed like fifteen feet tall, they towered over you. When apprehending the paintings you got the feeling of looming tragedy, with such intensity that, at any moment, an avalanche of dust and sand might break loose from the wall and undo you. I couldn't help but think of Flight of The Valkyries as I stood in front of the panels. I cannot remember to which German artist the next sculpture belonged, but it depicted a fighter jet as a kind of fallen angel. It lie on the floor, charred and half crumpled, crucified, impotent and unable to fly, burdened by a container of ash atop its left wing. It seemed to suggest the godlike power of technology and how it would have to reckon with the wrath it inflicted, and the life it stole.


And while the other floors housed fantastic sculpture, beautiful paintings by Morris Louis that resembled ghostly smears of colored streetlights seen through foggy windows, and an entire floor dedicated to the photography of Walker Evans, still, I felt the final exhibit of the seventh floor was the strongest. It was a piece by an Icelandic artist named Ragnar Kjartansson, hidden behind the elevators. Inside the room were perhaps ten movie screens, each showing a different musician playing a song; a man in a bathtub with a small acoustic guitar, two pianists, two electric guitarists, a cellist, a drummer, a chorus, and female singer with a high-pitched Icelandic accent. I entered the room midway through the performance, as the lyric "there are stars exploding all around you and there's nothing you can do," was being sung, screamed, by almost all of the musicians as the song began to crescendo. All of the museum goers in the room, some of whom were sitting crosslegged on the floor, seemed to smile, spellbound, relishing in the delightful magic of the composition. At first glance it seemed that the musicians were located in various places throughout the world, all living in a lavish sort of squalor; as though a wing of the Palace of Versailles had been annexed and repurposed as hostels for poor poets, singers, songwriters, and they'd let it fall into light disrepair. It struck me as strange that the artist would travel or ship these container rooms all over the world, but stranger things have been done in the name of art. As the piece neared its end though, it became clear that they were indeed all in one place when the musicians began walking off their screens and appearing on another performer's. To watch the excitement on the faces of those around me as they scampered to their feet to cross the room and watch the work unfold from screen to screen was awesome. By this time, all the musicians had converged on a single screen and had marched out of the mansion to greet the coming sunrise, or sunset, acoustic guitars in hand, as they continued to yell and sing their song while vanishing into the distance.

I hadn't realized how large the crowd was until I saw everyone standing in front of one screen together, unified by the song, like the artists disappearing down into the grassy meadow.

Monday, October 16, 2017

Desert Daze



To look at, Joshua Tree is a perfectly picturesque desert expanse. As far as the eye can see, cacti and twisted Joshua trees litter the dusty ground, which, when one imagines it, is teeming dangerously with scorpions, rattlesnakes, venomous spiders and all sorts of slithering lizards. But it isn't really. Sure, we saw the occasional lizard, a bee or a beetle here or there, but nothing especially harmful. We ate and drank and smoked all the harmful things; beer, liquor, psilocybin mushrooms, pot, and festival-stand chicken tikka masala (which, it turns out, was an explosive hit in the portapotties).

From the path where I arrived, I could see tents strewn about the camp grounds like colorful anthills. In some places there were RV's, retro-fitted buses, Volkswagon camper vans and an assortment of other hippie homes lightly sprinkled with desert sand. As you could imagine, the sky was cloudless, and so the morning was fiercely hot, and getting hotter. As I trudged along on foot, not knowing where the path would take me, or how long it would be before I found my friends, I stumbled directly into our campsite. Paul, the tall, bearded, RV ringleader of our circus clan, gave me a haggard smile and a hug. Everyone was just waking. Because of a flight delay and an earlier-than-expected gate closure, I missed the party the night before and instead slept soundly at a Motel 6 nearby the Palm Springs airport. If camping in the desert teaches one lesson, it is that precious little time exists in the space between sunrise and sweltering sleeplessness, for few things are as unforgiving as the desert sun. Though the music generally started at or around noon, most campers hid in the shade sipping on beer for the larger portion of the day, just to wait out the heat. Now there were some intrepid souls who showed up for morning yoga and guided meditations at 7:00am, but none in our group.

The entire three days were to be devoted to psychedelic rock music and the continued pursuit of spiritual enlightenment. To aid in this search, located somewhere on the festival grounds was a magnetic field generator that was said to guarantee good vibes for all. I had read about the purported benefits of magnetic field exposure, how these waves are believed to align the chakras and re-balance the body's energy, and I have to say, it really did feel as though you were part of a positive vibration.

Not everyone had such a blissfully meditative, mind-opening experience, though. An outsider, brought into the group by a strange twist of fate, couldn't shake the dark cloud which hung over him. He was a bit younger than us, from Texas, maybe in his early twenties. I first noticed him as he lingered for a long while around my periphery before sitting down in the chair beside me. Alex was his name. He was of medium to average build, wore a short, shaggy haircut, and had generally round features and sparse facial hair. His eyes had a dejected, broken look about them, and his energy was all wrong; angry, jilted, apart instead of a part of something. Do you want to me leave, he asked me after some silence. In truth, I did. I didn't at all enjoy his company. But it was clear he was having a bad time, so I couldn't say that to him - even though he might have sensed how I was feeling. No, you're fine, I said. Were you guys talking about me, he asked. No Alex, I didn't know you existed until just now. I think I got dosed...twice. Oh yeah? Yeah, it was bad. Well, that sucks. Have some water, sit in the shade. I was in the portapottie before, and I couldn't find my urethra. Yeahit happens, I told him, sometimes it just slips out like the ink cartridge in a pen. Then I tried to shit, and I couldn't. Have you tried the chicken tika masala from the Indian food stand, it works wonders. All my friends trashed my campsite. Jeez, Alex, you're a downer aren't you? Can you tell us about something nice that happened to you this trip? Well, I just shit. Like, right now? Damn, maybe you should go take a spirit hike or something, find your spirit animal, air out. He smiled vacantly and then stood up to walk away, dung spilling out of his shorts in small, soggy clumps as he trudged off and disappeared into a dense brush of cacti. We heard them snapping and crunching as he went.

On the last day, half of our campmates had left in the early afternoon to get back home, so we stole out into the midst of the music. We were going to see The Allah Lah's, and we were eating a bag of mushrooms like it was trailmix. By midday we'd easily consumed our weight in beer, and we were smoking like chimneys - so much so that our only vape pen would later die of battery failure before nightfall. We made our way through the crowds with a Scottish couple we'd befriended at the bazaar, and took our place for the show beside a bunch of well-costumed people. One girl, tall and blond and wearing brilliantly shiny sunglasses and flared bell bottoms, was joined by her friend who held, at the end of a long stick which he thrusted again and again into the air, what appeared to be a paper mache palm tree wrapped in glow sticks. The entire crowd danced and swayed and boogied, kicking up little puffs of dust in tribute to the psychy, surfy tunes.

We got higher.

The sun had set and a pleasant breeze blew over us sweaty concert goers. We got cooler. Overhead you could see stars. After hopping from stage to stage, listening to music that seemed to get better and better, we arrived at the stage Spiritualized was to play. We got exciteder. In the center of the stage was a giant screen which had projected onto it images of the ocean. A desert oasis. Jason Pierce appeared and was met with a more than encouraging applause. He began strumming the guitar, creating a shimmering sonic texture which he had absolute control over. Never before had I seen an artist so expertly manipulate sound, and with such precision. Music flowed out into the open air and each note gave birth to an ever deepening dimension of sound until the audience was awash in it. During a beautiful rendition of the song "Stay With Me," one of our friends, A., was so entranced, he fell onto the ground and found Jesus. He got spiritualized!

Early this morning, as we cleaned up camp before the sun made our work unbearable, someone realized we hadn't seen Alex since he took off on the Hershey highway the night before. What if he's dead? Has anyone checked his tent? I lent him the tent, and all his stuff is in it. But he isn't? No. We continued getting things together while maintaining a hopeful indifference he might return. Breaking down my tent was an altogether unpleasant experience. Countless barbs of cactus needles had imbedded themselves into the fabric of the tent, and as I rolled it up to pack it away, I got stabbed and poked repeatedly in my fingers and in the fleshy part of my palms until suddenly I heard a rustling from behind the cacti beside me. I looked up and Alex appeared. He was naked, wearing a bone necklace and was covered in odd, brown markings which gave him the jarring appearance of a wild Native American from a cowboy movie. But what caught my attention was his scrotum. It was swollen and full of cactus needles. If I hadn't known any better, I would have sworn he had a hedgehog in a leglock. I watched him as he followed my gaze to his fleshy, purple pincushion.

I found my spirit animal he said, triumphantly. It's the porcupine.

Monday, October 9, 2017

Apocalyptic Picnic


Photographer unknown


Last night Hope Sandoval and The Warm Inventions played on a hillside winery in Sonoma, in a big barn. Some friends and I drove up to have a sort of night picnic. For a long time I have been a fan of her music, back when I only knew her as Mazzy Star. Her sound shimmers like a slow shaking tambourine, a trembling sitar, or a rasped maraca. With very little, she is able to summon a haunting, distinctly hazy intimacy that is both meditative and textured, existing somewhere between shoegaze, psychedelia and seance.

But halfway through her set, the wind became uncharacteristically stormy, and very dusty. A thick layer of it covered her microphone and glockenspiel, dulled the shine of the guitars. You could even see it in the length of light projected onto the stage. At one point, at the height of an especially powerful performance, as the drums crashed and guitars droned and she blew metal birdsongs out from a dusty harmonica, something unusual happened. I watched on, dumbfounded, witnessing that the harder she blew, and the more fiendishly the band played, the stronger and whiter the wind became, until it was impossible to separate the howling of the wind from the howling of her harmonica. And just as I thought my skeleton might explode under the weight of her song, the electricity cut out. The crowd sighed, then quickly cheered and clapped at the uniqueness of the situation. So heavy was the air with chalk that I wondered if it were really possible to be as dusty as it seemed. “See, San Francisco,” she said, this is what happens when you invite a witch to your town.” Soon the power was back on and they played a few more songs. The three soul singers were lovely, but it was the guitarist who stole the show with his soothing, psychedelic sound. Warm, round tones from his amplifier hung around us as our hearts turned to goopy honey. A demented grin spread across my face as my body seemed to spiral in a brilliant geometric whirl.

As the show ended, the wind grew far more ferocious. Trees began to creak and sway drunkenly around us. Big branches thrashed menacingly overhead. Garbage cans fell over and glass bottles rolled out. Napkins and papers streamed through the air as rocks and dirt kicked up from the ground stung at my eyes while we hurried down the path in the dark. Only a few yards ahead of us, people stood pointing and staring, taking photos of something in the distance. We approached and that's when I saw it. A rippling plume of dark smoke spilling itself terrifyingly across the horizon. And right above it, about to be extinguished by the colossal inky cloud, was an enormous red moon pressed against the stars like a lit cigar. Suddenly the gusts picked up speed and a group of nearby girls screamed as the smoke stole the moon from the sky. We reached the car and quickly took off away from the winery.

Idling at a stop sign, dead leaves swirled and cartwheeled madly over the car. How often do tornadoes touch down in Sonoma, I wondered. When I got back to San Francisco I began to notice, even there, chalky cones of light under the streetlights. From the sidewalks you could smell something was burning. I parked the dust-covered car and stepped out. Small bits of ash were falling down on me. On my phone I saw that a massive, 200-acre fire was burning across Napa and Sonoma. People were being evacuated. Walking, blinking my dry, sawdust eyes, I couldn't help but cough up dust and think of the ash raining down on me in the empty parking lot where I'd left the car. In the distance I heard the sirens of far away fire-trucks. My skin smelled like smoke.

This is what happens when you invite a witch to your town.

The winery where we saw the show has since caught fire, and the affected area, now exceeding 20,000 acres, has been reduced to smoldering rubble. Advisories were put into effect in San Francisco urging people to remain indoors if possible, to avoid respiratory issues that might arise from inhaling the particulate matter from the fires. Even now the air still stinks of campfire. This morning, a thick, sooty haze made a mess of the sunrise as it climbed, wincing and blushing, through mostly opaque ozone. A short while ago that same sun had swollen to five times its normal size, and setting, it hung low in the sky like a great red traffic light. STOP. It gave me a vague sense of unreality which I haven’t felt since back in New York, in the days after the towers fell. Although technically out of sight, and without any overt signs or evidence of hazard, calamity manages makes itself known; in the smell of fire, silence, a solemn sense of thankfulness - that you or your loved ones weren’t claimed, that you still have a place to call home. Misfortune encourages worry. Disaster convinces the mind to stop unsuspectingly turning corners, so that at every juncture you begin to anticipate an encounter with countless dangers, all liable to appear suddenly and with lethal, irreversible force.

Something else though. Bizarre happenings knock loose those hardened blockages inside the soul, alighting the mundane with possibility and relegating tedium, at least temporarily, to the wind. Those resultant sunrises and sunsets are not without beauty, I might add. Even the image of a rolling green vineyard wreathed in flames is not without a certain dark and devastating grandeur. An arsonist's wet dream.

Saturday, September 23, 2017

Decalcification



A pair of tassels gently sway at the open window. The air is warm and moves about lazily. Because I had earlier burned some palo santo, my apartment smells strongly of the wood's distinct, ceremonious aroma. To soften the scent I opened the door to the balcony, in addition to the window in my bedroom, and the large, central window of the living room, so that fresh air poured in while the sound of sunny, soulful music from my speakers poured out. Soon friends will arrive, and no longer will I have the time to sit idly and enjoy the lazy richness of the day's unfolding.

Last night, after my friend James' performance at a local cafe, we went out with two other musicians who had shared the stage with him. One of them, named Petra, tall and slavic, had a jubilant disposition that was as contagious as it was charming. Her friend, Elaine, had been born in Ireland and then promptly moved to Canada before she could acquire the accent. She was shorter, dark-haired, and had worried blue eyes. Her voice, easily the most striking of the evening, had a pained quality to it which flared as she applied a delicate vibrato to a mournful song about the encroaching darkness. She and I walked the four blocks to her car before we drove to Upper Haight to park at James'. We spoke about music and art and the importance of creative expression. She told me she'd just moved here, back in June, and hadn't spent much time in San Francisco, save for the odd, late-night taco after a gig. Soon we arrived at James' where I dropped off my camera and tripod before the four of us walked to a bar on Haight Street where we'd talk until the wee hours of the morning.

At some point the conversation took a spiritual turn and we discussed the need for deeper awareness, empathy, the confronting of fears, growth. Petra told us of two experiences she'd had in South America, in the rain forests, on ayahuasca. So much is shown to you, she said, that it takes one, two, maybe even three years to fully process all that's revealed. The day after the trip, she said, you feel something unlike anything you have ever felt before; there is no hangover, no bad feelings, only a swelling sense of openness and love.

Her journey, as I understood it, had been a softening one, and her story served as a reminder to me that we should always seek to remain mindful of the world's way of hardening us - and how we should try to stay soft, no matter how hard.

Thursday, September 7, 2017

La Ultima



Early summer. It was the last time I'd seen her. During this time of year the weather in San Francisco is generally pretty temperamental. Some days are gloriously warm, perfectly cloudless and calm, while others, marked by an unrelenting cast of grey, are chilly and dull and full of cold wind blown in from the pacific. At the western side of the city, the cold air, once it reaches the shore at Ocean Beach, picks up speed and travels east, carrying with it a gusting breeze that turns wrathful as it tears down Market Street in frigid streams. In San Francisco the sun makes all the difference. Many places in the American northwest are this way; Seattle and Portland to name a few. This day in June happened to be sunny, and unusually warm when I found myself freshly returned from a camping trip up north, in Sonoma. My friends and I spent the weekend in an idyllic green campground, hiking during the day, singing solemn songs to celebrate the sunset, and sleeping beside a chorus of bullfrogs at night. On the evening we checked in we had a lengthy discussion about the absurd nature of life, and why we go on grasping with a fierce desperation at meaning, when, at least ostensibly, the only thing to be found is meaninglessness. And as we wrestled with Camus, Viktor Frankl, the Existentialists, Nihilists and Humanists alike before contemplatively returning to our respective tents, we didn't get any closer to an answer. 

Driving back to San Francisco we'd seen a man struck and killed on a motorcycle. We arrived, my friend James and I, inching forward at a snail's pace, amid a flurry of ambulance sirens. Two police-cars had formed a blockade on either side of the accident, concealing as best they could the man who lie on the ground between the fallen motorcycle and badly dented car. To our right, having exited their crumpled vehicle and relocated to an uncomfortable seated position on the curb, were a white-haired couple who held one another and tried, no matter how hopelessly, to offer tearful consolations. From between the cars I saw the legs of the recently deceased, whom, with his back against the pavement and with one leg twisted at a cartoonish ninety degree angle, was being draped in a white blanket by two police officers. All I could think about, for a long while, was the body and the bit of blood glistening on the asphalt. What terrible melancholy I felt tunneling through my veins. How awfully my whole being shuddered at the thought of the man's crooked leg jutting out from the white sheet while sunny blue skies shined down on the now cooling body. My nerves were especially sensitive after two near-sleepless nights in a tent, and everything seemed suddenly more vibrant; the sun reflecting off the road; the hot air circulating through the car; the smudges on the windshield; James' silence; the eerie multiplicity of those never-ending rows of vineyards and, passing in equal intervals, the empty spaces between them. Overhead a large hawk cut the air in a slow spiral. "Makes you think," James said, "it could have been us."

Back home, and freshly showered, my appetite had finally returned to me. As I walked down the street, taking in everything around me with renewed gratitude, the city seemed to bristle with happy enthusiasm and, even though I knew it was impossible, I couldn't help but think it might have had something to do with witnessing the accident. People smiled brightly as they passed, cars with their windows rolled down drove by playing sunny songs, and the bars, packed full of patrons drinking glasses of golden liquid light, were glad to offer free shade. A small, three-legged dog, wearing an unnecessary knitted shirt and blue booties, awkwardly hopped down from a doorstep and waddled eagerly towards a tree, excited to unleash a spray of urine that would mark its territory, when, all of a sudden, a girl of twelve or thirteen, wearing a pink tutu and authoritatively brandishing a bubble-wand emerged from the doorway imploring the dog to cease and desist; "Charles, not on that tree!" Crudely adhered to the tree was a sign that read, please don't let your dog pee on the plants. The dog, uncertain, hesitating a moment as the girl charged him, managed to squirt out a thin yellow spritz before being shooed away. Nearby, on the sunny parklet in front of a local coffeehouse famous for serving outlandishly priced avocado toast, a waitress was collecting cups and wiping down tables. Women in sunglasses, walking by wearing black yoga pants and SF Giants baseball caps, talked idly of an absentee mutual acquaintance's poorly chosen summer apparel and how badly it looked on her.  

Crossing my path while stuffing a receipt into her tan leather bag, a blond girl, tall, with long slender legs and wearing a clay-colored shawl hanging loosely from her shoulder, came out through the door of a corner convenience store. Her hasty exit nearly caused me to crash into her. She looked up, and due to the angle of her head hanging down, with her neck craned toward the contents of her bag, her blue sunglasses had slid slightly down, allowing me to catch a flash of her brilliant green eyes. Our interaction had been short and conciliatory, consisting only of a smile and an apology, but as I entered the adjoining cafe to have lunch, I couldn't get her off my mind. Only after I had ordered a sandwich and sat down did I realize why. She bore a strange resemblance to Holly. Even the shawl she wore seemed the same cut and color as one Holly had purchased while vacationing one autumn in Portland. The association wasn't purely physical; Holly didn't have green eyes; but I detected some shared disposition, a sense of aloofness, a blank expression conveying that veiled childlike defensiveness which so typified her demeanor during our time together. 

It had been months since we'd broken up, but presently, we were stuck in that burgeoning, anti-amatory, growing-apart phase of our love. We oscillated between bouts of rapid communication and heavy silences, only seeing each other infrequently, usually at night, and only after she'd been drinking. Tender three-word messages would spring up on my phone in ambush, like late-night tripwire. I don't know what hurt more — receiving them, or not replying. Ours was a whirlwind relationship, a tornado of passion which, once it had ended, twisting and skidding maddeningly over the horizon, left us slack-jawed, standing with dusty faces powdered white with terror at the devastation; shaken yet grateful for the clearing skies. Early on I'd ignored the signs of warning, overlooking her faults and appealing instead to the sentiment encased in a timeless Hemingway line: I thought she was probably a little crazy. It was all right if she was. I did not care what I was getting into. 

When we'd first met, on a cool mid-September night in Lower Haight, instantly I saw in her a kind of kindred sensibility. “Sorry I’m late,” I began to say, noticing for the first time her big, serious eyes which, when paired with her hard Norwegian brow and braided blond hair, gave her pouty lower lip and high round cheeks a lovely compliment. She stood in front of a restaurant where we’d planned to go for a drink, but when I arrived we were greeted by a crowded bar and a waiting list. Having no interest in spending our time standing outside, I suggested we relocate to a nearby bar, on Page Street. As she spoke, certain character traits began to emerge; she was curious, playful, and evidenced by her persistent questioning, struck me as smart and strong-headed. She relayed a story from earlier that day, of having accused her best friend of drinking too much water. An odd criticism, I thought, not recognizing it as an early indicator of her ornery nature. Initially, when she would ask pointed questions and challenge even the most basic of assumptions, I found it not abrasive, but rather charming, impressed by her pursuit of truth even at the cost of comfort and grateful for how conducive it had been to conversation. After a few drinks I suggested we change venues to an art bar known for its live music. Holly agreed and we walked the two blocks to the bar. On the way the air was cool and pleasant, gently blustery in that forgiving, 'San Francisco in September' sort of way, and even though it hadn't been made obvious by any single occurrence or gesture, the sum of the night's sentiments seemed encouragingly permissive, unlocking potential with every sentence, step, smile.  

"We'll go," she said, "after one more song," but when after fifteen minutes of continued dancing I leaned in and kissed her, Holly, in a gesture I still cannot understand, turned and ran out the door without saying a word. A man beside me, having seen the kiss and subsequent bloom of confusion on my face, shrugged in gentle commiseration. Glancing back at the vacant exit, suddenly her blond head popped into the doorway, and carrying with it an expression as puzzled as my own, she smiled and motioned with her hands for me to follow. "I thought you heard me," she started, assuming that soft air of infallibility I would come to know so well, claiming she'd very clearly said let's go, I just hadn't heard her. How familiar I would become, in time, with her numerous quirks and oddly enigmatic behaviors, those manic compulsions and intricate sensitivities that would come to liberate her from the oppressive confines of accountability and reason. Why, then, knowing this to be true, did part of me wish to contact her? Despite everything, I still loved her. And sure, the last time we'd spoken had gone poorly, the two of us severing contact in a way that left things feeling sour and unresolved, but there was something else. A nagging thought, one which had burrowed into my mind after the earlier highway fatality, regarding the three-ring circus of life, love, and mortality - particularly the tenuousness of life, the foolish, hopeful insistence of love, and the linear, terminal nature of human mortality. All of it had me wanting to smooth things over. So, leaving the cafe after lunch, I resolved to reach out. I sent her a text and we arranged to meet at her apartment.

Outside it was just as perfect as before. The trees fluttered gently in the sunny breeze. Dogs on leashes trotted by happily while their owners allowed them to indulge in nosey investigations at a nearby fire hydrant and, endorsed by the soft optimism of blue skies, toddlers in strollers cawed like crows at a spreading warmth which walked itself across hot cement and glinted off the polished hoods of freshly washed cars. Crossing the street I noticed a homeless man with a cardboard sign begging for change. His sign read, anything helps, except nothing, nothing hurts. Clearly a recovering Nihilist, I offered my condolences in the form of a few spare one-dollar bills, saving the remainder for a drink at the local market on the next block. It would only take a few minutes to get to her apartment from the market, and as I walked, deliberating, thinking about what I wanted to say, memories began to rain down on me while the crosswalk sign flashed. I remembered our first Halloween together, having just passed a bar we’d arrived at late that night after attending a bloody, bawdy theater performance, each of us dressed in animal onesies, drunk and laughing, touching, kissing, eager to tear our costumes off; which we would, once we got back to my apartment. Having seated ourselves at the edge of a table closest to the street, we had been drinking frozen cocktails which were as fruity as they were boozy, when a female photographer asked to take our picture and instructed us to climb into the on-premises prop coffin before snapping our photo. [Only in hindsight does the macabre symbolism of the gesture reveal its cruel hand.] The morning after, when I’d woken up and found her sleeping peacefully in bed beside me, I noticed something about her, especially around the eyes; a quiet intensity looming just beneath the surface. They were smart and sharp and, in a certain light, threatening. But now those eyes, sleeping, closed, hidden under the dark feathers of her lashes, moved softly and surveyed a dreamworld I hoped I was a part of. I recall smiling contentedly, not just at her inscrutable beauty, or the myriad mysteries of her dreaming mind, but at how we’d taken the metaphor of Halloween and inverted it, producing instead of disguise, a literal and genuine unmasking. 

A rather obese man, mumbling and huffing irritatedly to himself, emerged from my right side and forcibly alerted me with his mass and acceleration that the walk sign had changed to green. Once I started moving I realized I had been standing directly in front of the bar where Holly and I had our first runaway kiss. I reflected on the peculiarity of places, and how they have the tendency to take on a stature far larger than what can be perceived of as merely physical; memory imbues them with substance, existing at once objectively - in this case, as a bar - but also as an infinitely complex mosaic of subjectivities; our first date; that bar with the poor service; the place where I lost my credit card; where the DJ's spin Motown records. Now, only a block from her apartment, space quickly took on a new dimension, one fraught with worry, characterized by a pervasive sense of uncertainty. 

Where once the walk had elicited feelings of excitement, the happy recognition that I was soon to see the one I loved, now it brought only a feeling of aporetic doom. I wondered where our love had gone. Where did that soft, immeasurably charming, caring girl who cried with happiness when I asked her to be mine disappear to? The girl who, knowing my weakness for pumpkin pie, after Thanksgiving dinner had left her family and taken an hour-long train ride to my apartment just to give me a piece of the pie she'd baked. The one who, at times, especially after intimate lovemaking or a tender embrace, would weep with deep satisfaction at the closeness we shared. One night, we were out at dinner, at a restaurant in the Mission called Flour + Water. It was a trendy, Italian restaurant, and we were seated at the bar. The lights were dim, causing all the glass and metal surfaces to twinkle and shine in a soothing sort of way. She looked gorgeous, as she often did, her long blond hair hanging loosely over her black shirt as she leaned towards me, as if about to say something. But then, she didn't. 

"What's wrong," I asked. 

"It's nothing."

"You sure?"

"Yeah," she said, looking a little troubled. 

"It seems like something's wrong," I started after some silence, "but I don't want to push you to talk about it, unless you want to," I added, feeling more curious about what was on her mind.

"Yeah. No. It's silly," Holly said, laughing a little and taking a drink of her wine. 

More silence. 

"It's just that...you're going to think I'm crazy."

"No, I won't. I want you to feel comfortable telling me anything," I said, now worried about what she might say. Was there someone else? Was she pregnant? Had I done something?

"Okay," she said as her eyes began to well with tears, "I was looking at you, and for some reason I imagined you really old, and wrinkly, and it just mad me feel so sad."

Relieved, and overcome with warm emotion, I reached out to touch her as she reached out to touch my face. I hated to see her cry. Few things bothered me more. I disliked the helpless feeling of having been unable to prevent or dismiss her distress. Her admission was tender and sweet and I didn't know how to reply. 

"I just love you so much," Holly told me, composing herself, "and to think of you getting old makes me sad, and happy - because I can be old with you and take care of you. It's a weird feeling. I can't describe it."

Presently, I watched as she exited through the metal gate which stood between her and her front door. Wearing sunglasses, jeans, and what looked like a new, light-colored leather jacket, she waited for me to approach. I greeted her with a kiss on the cheek, one that, for some reason, seemed to produce a brief flutter of confusion on her face. It had then promptly disappeared before I could address it. Only later, while sitting in Duboce Park, would she ask with muddled irritation why I'd done it.

“So," I said, "I'm thinking we could go to Duboce instead of Alamo. It’ll be less windy.” 

“Sure,” she said, before noticing the drink in my hand. “Ah, I can’t drink kombucha anymore; I just stick with beer now.” 

“I see you’re doing well, then,” I said jokingly, and proceeded to tell her I haven’t been drinking much lately.

“I’ve been drinking a lot. I was out Thursday, on Friday I was out until 8:00AM, and I went to a show last night; feeling pretty slow today.” 

We moved on, talking idly of unserious things. Something about our recent interactions had left me feeling not like her long-time lover, but instead, more of an estranged acquaintance. Flirtation, levity, and a playful dismissiveness had replaced our previous good charity. Having traveled the world with her, I’d grown fluent in her subtexts and could sense, no matter how hard she tried to hide it, that she was hurting. In her speech were barbs of resentment, sometimes subtle and other times overt, which would spring up in little acerbic bubbles and burst. "I should see you more often," she said, sarcastically, "it's great; it makes me wonder why I missed you in the first place." 

Sitting beside her in the grass, we looked out and watched a pack of dogs play fetch and chase each other around contentedly until their owners called for order. Despite her proud, phlegmatic body language, I could see her eyes were damp with bitter sorrow. A memory flashed, of a time spent together on Baker Beach. A heavy fog, which had been set low in the sky, caught fire from the soon to be setting sun. We glided through the misty whiteness, floating like phantoms, laughing, whispering and brushing against each other's arms as the air, which seemed full with drops of suspended rain, painted the beach in an eerie, pointillated fog. The sun reflected softly against the water as silhouetted children chased a wet dog into crashing waves. Shadowy seagulls pursued the outline of a jogging woman while thin curls of foam frosted the shore. Far away hills seemed as flat and white as paper. Thick sheets of haze had been burning up from the top of a wrinkled ocean as the sky grew precipitously more chalky. Sand by the shore looked like spilled sugar, and the air around us, ghostly and glimmering, had the look of damp, dew-dusted cotton. We talked and laughed and kissed and nothing else in the world mattered. Sand got into our mouths and we kissed with crunchy, exfoliated lips. I said something inane and she called me an idiot and I wanted to kiss her again. Her eyes were wet with laughter then. Staring at the sky, we interpreted rows of raked clouds until a great and hissing sea swallowed the sun.

“You seem upset,” I said, back in the green brightness of the park.

“No, I’m fine,” she replied. 

But she wasn’t. It was usually that way with her. The details of Holly’s emotional state had to be extracted with great care, taking caution not to overwhelm her sense of volition, or else she’d be liable to suddenly shut down or lash out, often accusing me of forcing her to talk; as though I were some sort of interrogator demanding under duress information on the vagaries of her feelings. Her love had been like this too. I'd discover the skittish, birdlike nature of her affections; how the slightest movement or response to her approach, which was always slow and gradual, would invariably send her flapping away to a safe distance, where, after a moment's contemplation, and having seen the bread in my outstretched hand, she'd make her hesitant return. So fearful was she of being placed in a cage, that she met with open rebellion and contempt any attempt to draw her nearer to me. Perplexing as it was, seeing how I only set out to offer her warmth, kindness and heartfelt devotion, still, I persisted. In time, having grown accustomed to my good intentions, she began to trust me. Her anxious apprehensions never did completely fade though, and lingering on as strained micro-aggressions and perceived slights and indiscretions where there were none, they kept a distance between us that I never could quite close. 

I’d met with her to try that day, perhaps foolishly, to put in place a set of boundaries, which, in those times of uncertainty, could be referred to as a rough code of conduct; no more late night texts, no more sleeping together, no more flirting with the idea of a possible reunion. Anything that would blur this newly established platonic line between us was to be avoided. "I don't think it's healthy or helpful for us to continue interacting this way," I told her. She at first replied only with her body; a subtle wrinkling of the nose, a quick touch of the neck and turning away of the head, an uncomfortable shift of her shoulders. "Unless I'm mistaken," I continued, "I don't think there's a mutual interest in trying to repair things and make it work, right?" 

"Right," she said. 

Everything she'd communicated up until this point, at least verbally, had been opposed to the slightest hint of reconciliation. Secretly, and against my best interests, I'd somehow hoped her response would be different, that she might lay her cards down and candidly tell me she was feeling conflicted, that she really did want to give it one last try. How often I’d fallen prey to wishful thinking with her. It reminded me, in many ways, of the relationship I'd had with my father, and how he’d come to teach me, in painful detail, about the unreliable, fickle nature of love and human kindness. I’d chased her like I chased him, almost helplessly, hopelessly, always feeling like I was probably making a mistake, that I’d only get let down again, but wanting, no, needing so much to be proven wrong that I had little choice in the matter. From a young age it had been clear that I had been blessed with the colorful misfortune of a Romantic soul, and so each time I’d storm the castle and each time I’d be shot down, taking on a tragically Sisyphean aspect which, instead of acting as a deterrent, seemed to embolden my efforts; what greater show of heroism and valor than to face an insuperable adversary armed only with the knowledge of certain defeat? But repetition teaches a cold lesson. What had been courageous the first ten times quickly turned quixotic and then sad before becoming idiotic. I’d pursued her across the globe; from San Francisco to Mexico, under the dancing purple green auroras in Iceland, through the hazy, smoke-filled bars of Berlin, over the cobblestone streets of a grey and raining Dublin and around an ice-covered Vancouver, only finally letting go in the dense urban metropolis of Tokyo. We had broken up days before we were to leave for Asia, but we still managed, despite extreme emotional volatility and a high likelihood for disaster, to work as a high-functioning team. Perhaps because we had overcome the confusion, the helpless flailing, the collusive ugliness and corrosive grasping at salvaging our failing love, we'd been unexpectedly set free. Ironically, it was the time we loved each other best, without urgency or concern, when we were both most aware of and grateful for our chance capacity to work together. We'd be challenged by love in other ways, as is always the case, but in that twinkling, sleepless, technicolor city it didn't matter: we were all we had.

But, back in San Francisco, I would chase her no more. I think that’s what bothered her most. How pained and powerless it must have felt to know a disciple was no longer devoted. Maybe that’s why she cried in the park that day, why, instead of telling me how she felt about what I'd said, she just replied, “I don’t appreciate you telling me what to do. It’s weird. I only texted you twice. It’s like you’re trying to control me. I can text you if I want to; you don’t have to reply.” [Consider for a moment, reversing our genders in this conversation. Imagine a man telling a woman who had left him that he was going to continue calling her, and if she didn’t like it she didn’t have to answer.] But I understood: Holly perceived the breakup as a rejection not of the way we'd been treating one another, or of the way we'd stopped protecting each another, but of her. She was hurting and didn’t know what else to say. That might be why she’d tried, before and after that conversation, to bait me into petty fights and quarrels - because it’s easier to villainize than it is to acclimatize. For some, there is no difference. 

A memory came to me, as I walked away, of the day we'd arrived in Ireland. Wretchedly hungover from a late night out in Berlin, we'd braved the overbearing scrutiny of a militaristic German airport and landed in Dublin, where we descended into a massive, blowout fight which had almost undone us. About the specifics of the incident, I can not recall - as is often the case in hindsight - but one can assume it had something to do with human egos vying for safety and control, eventually devolving into a tangled knot of pettiness and fear which rendered us nasty, brutish and mean. It was the last night of the trip before we were to return to America, so we'd tried, begrudgingly, to sort out our differences and make the best of things. But the bear-trap maw of mutual injustice clung to us with a grizzly tenacity, and no matter how hard we struggled to pry ourselves loose, we were hopelessly stuck. We went out to dinner and tried but failed to get along. Leaving the restaurant, completely wiped out with exhaustion, we wandered in aimless silence around a narrow market full of stores selling souvenirs and those useless knickknacks only old ladies and children want to buy. Holly wanted coffee so we walked into a small cafe. It offered a humble assortment of ice creams, in addition to coffee and tea, and it was run by a stout Russian woman with a thick accent. We sat at the table, unsure of what to say to one another. Whatever we tried had gone wrong. She sat wiping her swollen, puffy eyes and cried into a brown napkin.

"I realized something," she said.

"What's that?"

"I must not be good at taking care of another person; at making sure their needs are getting met. I've just never been good at it."

Now, alone, walking home from the park, I wondered if she'd been right that day. I wondered why love never seems to last; maybe everything has to die and it's just that simple; maybe deep down love is just another form of hope, that things will turn out right, that everything really is okay; maybe it's been a conjured illusion all along, something we use to get us through the day; the acceptable, adult version of heaven; the idea that if we're good we'll be rewarded with the unfettered affections of another; perhaps because of those well-concealed insecurities which we try so hard to keep hidden from the world, we find ourselves in need of constant worship, of praise and validation, the recognition of our virtues, so that we might have verifiable proof of worth, eye-witness testimony as a testament to our greatness; maybe we just want someone who adores us to remember us when we're gone; a sort of short-term immortality; maybe love fails because we secretly want to destroy those who adore us because we truly detest ourselves; maybe we don't love, we just channel it - dirty mirrors reflecting love like sunlight - the light isn't ever ours to give; maybe we're all well-intentioned and imperfect, and because of this our love is too.

It was strange, when I first met her, after we'd been together for some months, I truly believed, based on qualities I'd seen in her and things which had been said and shared, that she might be the one I would spend the rest of my life with. We would be out somewhere, at dinner, or in the park, or sitting in bed at night, and all the world around me would melt away, leaving only her shining eyes staring back at me; eyes which, I thought, had acquired the same sort of uncluttered clarity as my own. We'd gone away one weekend, to camp at a hotsprings in Nevada City. The weather was warm and sunny, and we walked from the car to set up our tent in the woods. Holly was handy, handier than me most of the time. With her crafty company we effortlessly set up the tent and smuggled in some wine and beer, even at the cost of potentially attracting a bear. There had been signs prohibiting alcohol on the property. 

"Maybe this is a bad idea" I said.

"It's fine," Holly said. 

"Yeah, you're right. We'll just make sure we finish the bottle, so there's none left over. Bears can't smell wine in your stomach...I hope."

We stripped off our clothes and went wandering through the forest like naked nymphs until we climbed up a large, paved pathway where we found a private pool reserved for couples. It only took us a moment to perform the requisite shower and then I sank languidly into the water. As I watched Holly approach I couldn’t help but smile. She was gorgeous and radiant and glistening and eager to get into the warm water with me. The sun, shining behind her, lent an angelic softness to her figure as she lowered herself into the bath. Heat rushed in uneven ribbons over my skin where invisible currents stalked the tub like snakes. The tranquil sound of trickling water lent a gentle, intimate layer to our nakedness as it whispered above whatever words were spoken to conceal them entirely from any ears that might be nearby. No one was, though, and the only thing to be heard over the water was the occasional bird, or the soft rustling of wind through the trees. The thin screen door sometimes slapped like a wooden metronome against the frame if a quick breeze would come and, the breeze, before making its way to the water, would displace steam in a cool swirl before collapsing onto the surface of the pool. Holly touched me under the water and soon her subdued moans turned to breathy sighs. The slightest sound would cause me to look toward the door, afraid and half-expectant to see the reproachful glare of another guest looking down at our indecent intimacy with disgust, but that moment never came. Instead we held onto one other, pulling ourselves closer with every breath, thinking that maybe with enough force and intention we might bring together whatever was hidden under our skin and beating behind the bones in our ribs to touch. And as she wrapped herself around me and nestled her face into my chest, I couldn't tell that she was crying. Only later would Holly say, "before, in the baths, that was the closest to you I've ever felt - I cried."

Things felt right when we were together, despite our flaws. Her smile was contagious and charming and she had a certain funny way about her that often left me feeling amused and happy. Recently, while going through my phone, I found photos and videos I’d taken of her; a montage of meaningless moments captured during our time together. I smiled as I relived the memory of her dressed in a red gnome's cap and my pajamas and t-shirt while we walked down the stairs of my apartment on a quiet December morning. Other videos, of lying in bed and playfully annoying her by shining a light in her eyes, or catching her singing a song or making silly noises before she demanded I stop and delete the video. All of it contributed to a wistful blaze of nostalgia which left me wanting nothing more than to feel her skin against mine. What a whirl of bittersweet sensation it caused to think of her. I missed her so strongly, needed her so desperately, that, in that moment, I nearly believed myself capable of overcoming all of the emotional turbulence just to be with her again. None of it seemed to matter, because she was the one I loved, and if loving her involved some degree of suffering, well, I cared for her enough to endure it. I’ve never known a relationship to exist, especially a romantic one, that didn’t entail some heartache. Only the naive and inexperienced think of love as something purely pleasurable. Love, the seasoned heart comes to understand, once it has been sufficiently wounded, surviving the cataclysm of Cupid's arrow by huddling in dark isolation and subsisting off the fumes of love's memory, is responsible for much pain and ennui. 

I began to ruminate on my role in all of this. Despite the ironclad belief that I was the hero of my own story, I knew I was no angel, and that innocence, when it is used as a shield, is the enemy of empathy. On several occasions I'd said hurtful things to her that I shouldn't have. I knew my words had cut her deeply because of the pain I'd seen on her face. It is something which still shames me. I had been too protective, too worried about losing her. This made me mad with jealousy, fueling feelings of neglect, suspicion and doubt, and predictably, this got the better of me. During the latter part of our relationship, at night, when we would lie in bed and Holly would fall asleep, I would imagine the manifold ways our love might unfasten itself, and my heart, beating in small tremors as sleep took its time to reach me, ached with a considerable and inconsolable loneliness that served only to hasten the very thing I feared. Nightmarish thoughts of losing her, of being denied the joy of having her in my life, and of being without the infinitely precious thing we shared, filled me with terrible dread and foreboding. So desperately I wanted to reach over to her and somehow preserve the moment in amber, keeping us alive and in love, nuzzled up comfortably against one another under warm covers, that I contemplated waking her and telling her how I never wanted to let her go. I never did, though. Doing so wouldn’t have changed anything. In time, I grew distrustful of her. Her love, to me, suddenly seemed flimsy and insubstantial, lacking the comforting strength I felt in my love for her, and instead of providing the conspiratorial complicity necessary for love, it struck me as having all the conviction of a limp handshake. I stopped seeing her as an ally and, as she was transformed into an adversary intent on undermining and betraying my affections (which she inevitably did, and even blamed me for it), it became harder and harder to believe she truly cared for me. So I began treating her not as a lover, but as a threat. My ultimate goal shifted from loving her to disarming her, to preempting her, to uncovering her plan and protecting myself from whatever malicious scheme she was hatching. Defensiveness has no place in matters of the heart. Of this we were both guilty.

Holly disliked my prying eyes. I saw her nakedly and this troubled her, for no one wishes to be seen - especially in the eyes of a lover - as reducible to a plainly stated observation. Doing so erases a person's mystery and robs them of complexity, secrecy, and self intimacy. And, what else is identity? I tried, perhaps too aggressively, to get her to share herself with me, and my enthusiasm, although well-intentioned, had intimidated her and caused her to withdraw. Love is, at times, awfully counterintuitive. To apply love too liberally is a mistake one sometimes cannot help but make, for love is a thing meant to be given; a frugal heart seldom gambles, and, as such, scarcely enjoys the payout or pleasure of a risky venture. After all, who among us would knowingly covet a miser's heart?

But in truth, when I look at things honestly, much of what I perceived as wrongdoing was, in large part, due to her inexperience, not malice. "I haven't ever loved anyone," she once told me, "I've only really had one relationship, and it wasn't like this." Holly had never had to navigate romantic space or establish boundaries or clearly communicate her needs, and so she was relatively inflexible, unsure of who she was or what she wanted, believing, in that youthful, worried way, that if she were to give herself completely to her partner she would have nothing left for herself. She didn't know better, and how could she; she'd had too few relationships to know - and I, too many. My heart was dented and tired and, while it held the courage needed to brave the painful carelessness of an unpracticed hand, it lacked the endurance. 

Either way, it was over. Nothing about the day had changed much at all. The afternoon had grown long, and so the wind had picked up speed, sprinting and dashing down side-streets, leaving the heads of hatless girls tousled and thrashed while heralding with newfound urgency a slowly encroaching blanket of white clouds. A familiar sadness enveloped me then. It appeared to be truly over, yet I didn’t feel quite as terrible as I’d imagined. Initially this admission stirred in me feelings of guilt, and remorse, because it seemed to, at least tacitly, signify an undeniable dissatisfaction with her, one which had not only cast a disparaging pall over her memory, but functioned as a reminder that I had been unhappy for a long time; she took away my solitude but gave me no genuine companionship. What else was I to do, I wondered. I'd given her my best - it wasn't enough.

Approaching, again through the swinging door of a storefront, was the same tall blond I’d seen earlier, this time carrying a six-pack of beer and a potted plant. She possessed something unnameable and warm, and though I didn’t speak to her, we shared a secret smile of recognition. When she passed, leaving a trail of soft perfume which lingered on the air behind her like a bride’s train, in that moment, unbeknownst to her, she had become profoundly important to me. Not so much because of who she was, but what she was: possibility. At the conclusion of any worthwhile relationship it is not uncommon to feel alienated from and abandoned by love. What was once simple, suddenly becomes cluttered and inelastic, burdensome instead of beautiful. The heart of a woman seems to hold all the mystery and menace of a coming storm. It seems safer - and somehow also wiser - to retire from love’s game; to become disinterested in its pursuit. But I felt no such disinclination. I was perhaps more open to love now than I had been before. 

Sometimes failure is necessary to find new direction. When I considered that the love I wanted must surely await me, at least somewhere, I felt immediately wrapped in a real and unmistakable tenderness as firm and incontrovertible as consciousness itself. Suddenly everything had quieted. On my brow a knot of tension had unfurrowed, the muscles near my mouth softened. For the first time in a long time, the world felt wonderfully alive and bright, inviting. I no longer felt constrained, but instead free to be who I wanted to be without fear of judgement or offense or tearful reproach. I was unimpeded and falling into I didn’t know what, but it felt good. And that I believed it to be so was all that mattered. 

Saturday, July 29, 2017

El Viaje Primero



The clouds were passing very thick and white across the long, glimmering length of ocean and beach behind us. We sat at the bar of La Palapa, a Mexican restaurant with good tequila and expensive frozen drinks. She shuffled the cards and I stared at her warmly as she neatly interleaved them at the corners and then slid them together into her hands. It was hot. The counter was wet and sticky from sugar and syrup and spilled drinks, and the cards were getting soggy and bent as we played. My luck had run out since the day before. I had held onto a respectable lead and it had irritated her, and now she was playing to win. She smiled and laughed and relished in her victory as she won over and over again. A pair of bees, rum-drunk from all the alcohol in the drinks, swarmed around me and menaced my head and hands as I tried to focus on softening my losses.

"This is hopeless," I said. 

Laughing and rolling her body toward mine she said, "I'm glad. Now you know how it feels."

“You do, too."

Out on the beach the waves hissed as they fell and sunk into the sand. Giant pelicans floated high over the shore like feathery fighter jets, waiting for the right moment to dive down and splash into the water for a fish. 

"It's your turn," she said. 

"Is it? Sorry, I feel out of it."

"We don't have to keep playing if you don't want to," she said with a smirk. 

I played a few more hands and lost more than I won. We walked outside and went past the sweating maitre de toward the beach boardwalk which was hot even under the clouds. We'd been in Puerto Vallarta for a few days now. Most of the time we found ourselves walking the length of the malceon, stopping here and there for a cold margarita or to look at a piece of art, all while being pestered by people who tried to sell us things we didn't need or want. Other times we laid on the beach drinking cheap Mexican beer sold to us at exorbitant prices as the sun pressed itself against our sunscreened skin. At night, after a day of drunken leisure, we'd roam the cobblestone streets of the city in search of an authentic Mexican restaurant or a solid street taco. After, we'd walk back to the hotel room and kiss and fuck and fall asleep. Before the trip I'd never been to another country, never mind with a girlfriend. I'd been to Canada twice, but that hardly counts; English is the dominant language there and the place is barely different enough from America to be called a separate country. That's not the case in Mexico, even in a tourist town. Perhaps especially in a tourist town. 

As soon as we landed we made our way through the airport to stock up on some local currency: pesos. We waited in line in front of what we thought was an ATM but instead turned out to be a bus ticketing machine. Luckily we realized before feeding it 2000 pesos each. No one ever tells you about the sinks in a Mexican airport. They don't have motion sensors, or handles that can be lifted or turned. I tried three different sinks before considering I might be doing something wrong. Beneath the faucet dangled a strange metal rod with a bulbed bottom. I tried pushing it up with my hand but nothing happened. A moment later someone else appeared beside me and applied a liberal amount of soap to his hands. I watched curiously to find out what his next move would be, half hoping to see him struggle as I had, if nothing else for confirmation of my own sanity. Instead water gushed from the tap and, after drying his hands, he was gone. Huh. I walked to the sink he'd used and inspected it for any variances. Nope, same sink. Suddenly he reappeared to claim the sunglasses he'd left behind. "Push it to the side," he said. Ah, of course. 

We walked out of the airport and crossed an overpass perched above the highway. It terminated at a dirty, half-busy looking Mexican joint. We were starving so we approached the entrance. Something felt out of place. I suddenly felt unexpectedly anxious and indecisive. After a minute of hushed deliberation we awkwardly decided to get something closer to the hotel and hailed a cab. We drove through streets full of dilapidated storefronts and old buildings showing clear signs of disrepair. The streets looked dirty. A decrepit old Volkswagen beetle passed by and kicked up soot and black smog that choked the air. I felt like I was backsliding. There was a certain dizziness about landing. The subtle imbalance and wobbliness of arriving in a different country, especially one with such obvious signs of poverty, had my head spinning. More than that there was the feeling of guilt; the realization that this town was a byproduct of American exploitation.

After a day or so the guilt receded. Numbed to it, I began to relax. Drinking helped. There’s something palliative about sustained sunshine, margaritas and Mexican food. They soften and slow the mind, almost to a fault. Because it was the week of New Year’s Eve, all of the resorts and restaurants along the beach were full. Tourists flocked to chains like Señor Frogs, Bubba Gump Shrimp and McDonalds. Why, I’m not sure. There was plenty of good, local food a stones throw in any direction, but there is safety in familiarity I suppose. One day, while walking through the city on high sidewalks paved with uneven, half caved-in bricks, we stumbled upon a streetcart selling delicious smelling tacos. The cart was called Moreno’s. We sat down on the dark metal benches and placed our orders. After my first grande taco, I couldn’t help but order a second. The experience was odd though. There was the feeling of being an intruder, of being secretly unwanted. Never before had I experienced what it was like to be a complete outsider, a minority in a foreign land. When I spoke the language I knew I must have seemed a bumbling fool, displaying all the grace, eloquence and mastery of a four-year-old who’d just thrown up on his shirt. What’s worse was that it was unclear whether this feeling was real or imagined. It could have easily been a projection of my own feelings of inadequacy and general helplessness stemming from the knowledge that I couldn't effectively communicate. I didn’t even know how to say “toilet paper.” Papel de baño

Speaking of toilet paper. It would be a point of pride for me to be able to say I went to Mexico without suffering the wrath of Montezuma’s revenge. And I almost did, save for one morning after visiting Moreno’s for the second time. Before we left the hotel room my stomach had been feeling a bit off. I had slight heartburn and Holly had given me a pack of Tums.

“How many should I take,” I asked her.

“Just one, I think. They’re extra strength."

“Fuck it, I’ll take two, just to be safe.”

Back at the taco stand, as I took the last bite of my lunch, I felt something inside my stomach crawl and then putrefy menacingly. Maybe it was the Tums, I thought. We left and walked aimlessly through the town in search of somewhere to get a drink, possibly a snack. We were on the outskirts of civilization, in a veritable no man’s land when it hit me. I had to take a frothy brown piss, and I didn’t have much time. I knew where we were, and I knew that there weren’t any bathrooms nearby. I quickened my pace. When we passed the block with the bus depot I was battling the urge to break into a light jog. It was important to me to maintain a poised and cool exterior. “Let’s swing by Margaritaville for a drink,” I said. I knew the place was called Margarita Grill, but we’d cutely been calling it by the wrong name the entire time and I wanted to stay true to form so she wouldn’t suspect anything was wrong. When we turned the block I darted for the bathroom. I must have been wide-eyed and sweating, as panic stricken as a car racing the wrong way down a one way street. A worker in the back saw me and immediately asked, “baño?” as he pointed me in the opposite direction. Relief was close, I could feel it. The thought occurred to me that the bathroom might be single occupancy, that there might be someone already inside, and I prayed to Jesus Christo that wouldn’t be the case. When I got to the door I found it unlocked and unoccupied. Hurriedly I ran in and tried to shut the door. A horrifically Pavlovian thing happens to the body when it knows it’s inside a bathroom. In extreme cases of distress certain muscles begin to twitch and tremble, flirting with the idea of relief, regardless of whether your pants are still on. This meant I had only seconds. But the door wouldn’t close. I pulled it open and tried again. And again. Still no luck. Something was blocking it. My intestines were bubbling, kicking from the inside. Frantically, I eyed the crack of the door and found that there was a wreath precariously placed so that each time I tried to close the door it swung out into the crack and prevented the door from closing. I shut it more slowly this time, taking care to avoid displacing the wreath, but the goddamned wreath still found its way in between the door. I cried out in frustration and started yanking madly at the wreath until I ripped it clean off the door and I hurled it into the sink behind me. I locked the door and sat down just in time for the avalanche. After, back at the bar, when I relayed the story to Holly she laughed uncontrollably at my misfortune and nearly fell off her chair. We decided, as a cautionary measure, that we should remain that day at all times in close proximity to a restroom. So we did. 

On one of the nights we'd gone out to a high-end restaurant, to see what finer things Puerto Vallarta had to offer. We made a reservation and walked there, arriving right on time. It was fancy. We were seated outside, in the back, on a romantically lit patio decorated with exotic plants that lent the impression of being in a jungle. We ordered the tasting menu with the wine pairing. We didn't realize it at the time, but this meant we'd receive a full glass of wine with every course. The meal started with an oyster covered in foam. It was perhaps one of the most delicious oysters I've ever tasted in my life. In the middle there was a pumpkin soup with something indescribably creamy in it, and at the end we received a piece of duck cooked so expertly that the meat fell right off the bone if you looked at it long enough. The meal was incredible. The creme brûlée was so good it was criminal. Still, I think my favorite meal had been the night we'd drunkenly bought a roast chicken. It had been placed into an aluminum foil sack full of roasted potatoes and handed to us with two plastic containers; one full of beans and the other rice. We walked back to the hotel, intent to eat our dinner on the beach, when we realized we didn't have any utensils. In the hotel restaurant we bargained with our lives for plastic forks and knives. On a darkened beach we found two empty chairs separated by a propitiously placed small table. We sat and ate. The chicken was mouthwatering. I ate it with my bare hands, which felt warm and juicy against the cool ocean air. The skin was so flavorful that we each let out small moans of satisfaction after each bite.

The days bled together. The listlessness and leisure permeated even the clocks, caking the gears with sand and heat. Everywhere there was the smell of coconuts, salty air and sunscreen. On one particular corner, down the block from Margarita Grill, there was the foul smell of hot, fetid trash, which was unfortunate because a beautiful mural decorated the wall there, made of cut glass and colorful stones which swirled and danced over the building's face. The malceon, which stretched almost the entire length of the playa, sometimes smelled sweetly of fried carnival foods and Spanish corn. In the evening, the artwork would glow and big, brilliant piñatas would illuminate the night. Street performers danced and sang and played wooden flutes for the nonstop stream of passerbys. Once, on nearly clear night, we stopped by the shore to sit and watch the waves. Out in the darkness, floating like a buoy on the water was a pale and stoic pelican. Holding hands, nestled up against one another, we watched him on the waves. 

"He looks lonely," I said. 

"Yeah."

"Oh, look, he's got a friend."

Another pelican emerged from the darkness and sat near him. 

"Lie down with me," she asked as she flattened her back against the ground. 

We stared up at the thin, wispy clouds drifting across the sky. Little stars poked through, glimmering like blue diamonds caught in a celestial wash of cotton. A feeling of vast insignificance blew in from the ocean and floated down from the sky above.

"Look at all the people," she said, "they look slanted."

Arching my neck, I tilted my head back to see all the upside down people behind me. They did seem strange, almost insectile; a sea of clothed bugs clamoring around a piece of fruit. Looking down at us, some of them held eye contact for too long as they passed. I wondered whether they thought we were drunk or on drugs. In a hushed voice a nearby panhandler told me he had de weed en de blow. He told me he had it right now. His urgent expression seemed to suggest it was something I needed to have. I thanked him and told him we were fine. His sweating face receded like a squid-ink shadow into the crowd. Eventually we left the spot, passing through the teeming throngs of people and the barking toy poodles with flashing lights for eyes, and made our nightly voyage back to the hotel.

Sometimes, in the night, after having dreamt she'd been taken, or having forgotten entirely she was in bed beside me, I'd wake up and reach for her in the dark, just to feel her there. When I would touch her, goosebumps would spread out over her legs and soft breaths and sighs would float from her mouth as she'd gently wake and pull me nearer. A note, full, resonant, and deep hummed inside me and harmonized with hers. I felt a rising wave pulling, lifting us up to that brief place of buoyancy and patiently holding us there. Until earlier that day I didn't know what it was like to feel the pull of the tide. Since I was a child, and because I never learned how to swim, I hadn't set foot in the ocean. I never wanted to. The ocean had always represented a beautiful, aqueous sort of danger to me, and fear kept my feet in the sand. That'd all changed when I followed her into the water. I loved the symbolism of it. Hand in hand, smiling, laughing, with mouths and eyes full of saltwater, we battled an endless ocean of waves. Some of them clobbered us, some of them we moved through with ease, but through all of them we had each other; in the unforgiving, uncaring largeness of it all, we weren't alone. She laughed at me and found my apprehension endearing. I felt clumsy but her happy nature was contagious and soon I couldn't wipe the salty wet smile from my face. Suddenly we were in a place so sacred even gravity had to loosen its hold on us.

The sky was clear and blue and brilliant the day before we left. We woke and decided we should leave the city and head south, to visit Puerto Vallarta's botanical garden. We found a bus to Tuito that would take us there and we arrived just as it was to depart. We climbed on, sat on the side nearest the ocean, and stared out through the dirty, partially cracked bus window. The drive was 30 minutes of curvy coastal roads that twisted in and out of thick jungle overgrowth, mountains and palm trees. Every so often the bus would decelerate, almost to a complete stop, to roll slowly over a speed bump. Next to us, a Mexican kid played high-BPM dance music loudly from his cell phone speakers. Soon we arrived at our destination. We were immediately scammed into paying for a giant bottle of Off insect repellent, to protect us from all two of the mosquitos we would later find in the garden. After reapplying some sunscreen, and a liberal dose of our newly purchased and much needed Off, we headed to the trailhead. 

We passed through hanging gardens and walked over an old swinging rope bridge, we ambled across a small creek and tried hard to avoid killing little lines of traveling ants. It was hot, so it felt good to be in the shade. Eventually we emerged at a narrow path filled with many butterflies. In the distance there was a faint and far away music; the sound of violin and slow Spanish guitar. Butterflies of all sorts and colors flittered and fluttered with an easy, languid grace. A stone stairway led us down to a wide river and we waded in it. It was icy and refreshing on our legs. Upstream a few naked children splashed in the water with their families. We followed the sound of music and found ourselves scaling the stairs of a large restaurant with a gift store at the bottom. When we got to the top we walked past the band and took a seat at a nearly empty bar. They made perfect piña coladas. We left before we were tempted to have a second round. On the way back to the hotel I asked the bus driver to let us know when we arrived at Punta Negra, a beach I remembered reading about once before. He did, and we spent a few hours there in the water. I jumped in wearing cargo shorts and underwear. She buried her wallet and our phones and all our money in the sand. I hid my camera under my hat and kept a watchful eye on our belongings from the water. For a long while we laughed and jumped through waves, kissing as they came. Later, when we got back to the hotel I couldn't find my ID or hotel key. 

"I could have sworn I put them in your shoe," I said, as we both looked down at her black pair of Keds. 

"I don't remember seeing anything," she said, taking them off. She shook out the shoes and a card fell out of each one.